From a young age we appreciate the unique combination of sweet and salty foods. Whether it is peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at lunch, or bacon and waffles at the breakfast table, we learn how well sweet and salty work together.

But when it comes to deserts, some traditionalists may balk at seeing salt used with their favorite confections. Sure, in the past you may have used a pinch of salt to tame the bitter cocoa and bring out the sweetness of a chocolate cake. But confectioners now are using salt in unique ways to bring even more flavor out of their caramels and chocolates.

Caramel is iconic; from its use as a flavoring or syrup to the soft, chewy caramels passed down over generations in family recipes. More and more, confectioners are using sea salt to tease even more flavor out of their caramels. High quality sea salt comes from evaporation ponds in coastal areas. The highest quality salts, like Fleur de Sel and Sel Gris, come from the northwest coast of France, where the sea’s natural minerals combine with the salt to give it a gourmet, earthy flavor. Sea salt may even be smoked over wood fires to give it striking color and flavor.

The pairing of salty and sweet is indulgent. The mineral-y taste of the sea salt brings out the buttery, sweet richness of soft caramel. But how does this work?

Some recent explorations into flavor suggest that salt is not only adds its own character, but also enhances or suppresses the characteristics of the four other basic tastes (sweet, bitter, sour and umami (savory). In small amounts, salt will suppress bitter sensations while bringing out the sweet, sour and savoury flavors. Think of the way a moderate amount of salt helps balance the the sweet-and-sour combination of a good margarita. At higher concentrations, salt actually suppresses our experience of sweet flavors, bringing out the savory rich tastes of meats and cheese. This explains why seemingly odd pairings like melon and prosciutto or feta cheese and watermelon can be so.

In confections, the delicate dance between sweet and salty can be heavenly. The salt stimulates the taste buds, making them more receptive to complex flavors, and the crunch of salt crystals adds texture to the otherwise creamy caramels. Next time you are looking for a truly indulgent experience, try some sea salt caramels.

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